Visiting Biryani Heaven

There are many types of Biryani in Hyderabad, each with its own history and taste. Speaking of Hyderabadi dum Biryani, you'll find these of two qualities - the common variety served in hundreds of Biryani shops across the city, and the more sophisticated 'artisanal' type, found in pricey, fine dining restaurants. The major difference between these two is the ingredients used, with the latter using expensive varieties of rice (usually Basmati) and high-quality spices.

Hyderabadis have very strong opinions on Biryani and can come to blows defending their favourite type. I have been here for most of my life, and I have my own list.

My favourite mutton Biryani is made by Shah Ghouse cafe at Syed Ali Chaboutra in the Old City. The best way to end a Biryani meal there is to stop for a suleimani chai at the bakery nearby. 

Other really good varieties are to be found at Bawarchi (the original one) at RTC Crossroads in Secunderabad and Astoria, a few doors down from it. Paradise, though heavily marketed, is too flat, with a very shallow flavour in my opinion.

There are other Old City options that you will hear about - Shadab used to be good in the past but the quality has been inconsistent since then.

Among the fine dining restaurants, try Jewel of Nizam at the Golkonda Hotel by the Masab Tank flyover. They do a really great job. If you eat there, do try the Anokhi Kheer, a dessert made of spring onions!

What you should really do is try as many places as you can. You may find something that appeals to you. Good luck fellow traveller!

Beating the Heat in Hyderabad

A summer day is overblown ten times in India. The Sun, once a trusted friend, is now unleashing its vengeance on the Indian populace. Summers in the city of Hyderabad are no lesser than in any of the other states. What do the people of Hyderabad do on a hot summer day? They cool themselves down with these yummy drinks.

Hyderabadi Lassi

When the heat is draining out all your energy; there is no space for fancy colas and some such. If you want to beat the heat, then gulp down this flavourful Lassi. Hyderabadi Lassi is a special drink from the streets of Hyderabad and is a local favourite during summer. Curd, sugar and water are blended together to make this beautiful concoction.

Falooda

Eat it or drink it, Falooda never disappoints. Traditionally it is made from mixing rose syrup, vermicelli, psyllium or basil seeds, tapioca pearls and pieces of gelatine with milk or water. The basil seeds are known for their cooling properties and Falooda is eaten as a popular dessert in many households during summer in Hyderabad.

Roohafza

Roohafza is a rose flavoured drink that contains extracts from different plants and fruits. It has a complex flavour. A glass full of lassi with roohafza rejuvenates and makes you feel fresh. Roohafza can either be addeed to milk or yoghurt and had.

Irani Chai

Irani Chai has always defined the café culture of Hyderabad. Introduced by Persian settlers, this drink has a special place in every Hyderabadi’s heart. A sip of chai on a summer evening will take away all the heat that’s been bothering you.

Pudina Sharbat

This is a lemon and mint drink that is a great summer beverage. The Sharbat wala can be spotted at the corner of every street of Hyderabad serving tall glasses of this delicious drink. One glass of it can do wonders to you.

Hyderabad during the Holy Month of Ramadan

It is past midnight but the traffic is moving at snail's pace. Scores of people are in their cars, parked on both sides of the road and relishing the haleem, a Ramadan delicacy.

Dozens of young waiters of Pista House and Shah Ghouse, the two popular haleem makers, are on their feet, vying with each other to serve customers on the busy Toli Chowki-Mehdipatnam stretch.

Shoppers, the faithful returning from mosques, techies heading home from IT hubs, and families throng the dozens of food joints serving piping hot haleem. Heavy traffic, illuminated shops, and crowded hotels and eateries give one a feeling that it is day time.

And this is not the old city. So, the situation in the famous markets around the historic Charminar can well be imagined.

Any Hyderabadi, or anyone who is friends with a Hyderabadi, will know about Haleem, because they cannot stop talking about it! Hyderabadi Haleem is a unique dish made from meat, lentils and pounded wheat and various street stalls serve this dish in Hyderabad especially during Ramadan.

The Survival of a City

On the 10th of July 1947, the 'Declaration of the Indian Independence' bill was introduced by Harold Macmillan. To the Nizam's dismay, no mention or decision was taken regarding the state of Hyderabad.

All princely states were given the option to either join India, Pakistan or remain independent. All states that would join the Indian Union would have to surrender their sovereignty and their right to collect taxes. All princely states large and small agreed to join the Union of India, except Hyderabad. In June 1947, the Nizam issued a proclamation declaring independence from the Indian Union.

On the 15th of August 1947, India attained independence from the British, but Hyderabad stood defiant as an independent state. On 29th November 1947, the Nizam signed a 'standstill agreement' with the Indian Union for a period of one year.

In the months following the signing of the Standstill Agreement, suspicion and misgivings between the Nizam and the Indian government grew. Relations between the two were far from amicable.

On the 13th of September 1948, the Indian Army initiated its Police Action Against Hyderabad. The exercise was termed Operation Polo and for five days the Razakars and the Hyderabad army made a half hearted attempt to resist the Indian army. But their antiquated ammunition and ill equipped soldiers were no match to an entire armoured division of the mighty Indian army. A number of Razakars lost their lives in the battle and their feeble resistance was soon overcome.

Five days later, on the 18th of September, 1948, the Indian army entered Secunderabad Cantonment. Military rule was imposed.

A reluctant Hyderabad finally merged with the Union of India.

In 1972, the Indian Prime Minister, Ms Indira Gahndhi abolished the 'privy purse' and monarchs and royal families lost all their privileges at one go. The Prince migrated to Australia and while most of his estate is being managed by the trusts formed by his grandfather, some of it has been acquired by the government.

Thus an era became history and a Asaf Jahi dynasty spanning seven generations faded into the twilight leaving behind an indelible print on the sand of time.

The Birth of a City

Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, a ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, was the founder of Hyderabad City. In the year 1591, when the Moon was in the constellation of Leo, Jupiter in its own abode and all celestial planets favourably placed, he laid the foundation of a new city which he called Bhagyanagar after his beloved queen 'Bhagmati'. Bhagmati embraced Islam and took the name Hyder Mahal and consequently Bhagynagar was renamed Hyderabad after her.

City of Love

The fourteen year old crown Sultan of Golconda, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah was madly in love with a beautiful Hindu courtesan 'Bhagmati', a local dancer. Every evening, the Prince of Golconda would ride to the village of Chichlam across Musi river, to meet his beloved, for he couldn't live without watching her dance, and listening to her soulful voice.

The romance of the crown Prince with a dancer evoked great curiosity and controversy in Golconda. The fact that she was a Hindu courtesan and much older than the prince, created quite a uproar in the court. The orthodox society was not ready to accept her as queen of Golconda. After ascending the throne, Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah defied all traditions, married Bhagmati, and made her his queen. He re-christened her Hyder Mahal, and named the city Hyderabad in honour of her.

The Paradise Food Trail

The regal charm of Hyderabad lies in its ability to seamlessly merge its HITEC hub with its ancient heritage. By-lanes of Secunderabad, Char Minar and Nampally are awash with pungent aromas that fuse typical Andhra cuisine with rich Nizam culinary offerings. If you are on a food trail in the city, there's a cup of Irani chai and a buttery-soft Osmania biscuit waiting for you.


Cloudy haleems, crispy dosas, toothsome biriyanis and the search for the elusive luqmi (short fried pockets of mutton that can out-triumph any self-respecting samosa) - all this and more will have any true food lover falling in love with Hyderabad. A litre of watermelon ice cream here is the same price as a stick of gum. And, while Hyderabad is peppered with eateries, bakeries and watering holes, here are a few that you should not miss when in the city.

Hotel Shadab

Skip past the usual commercial restaurants that scream biryani, and instead head for some delicious chicken nihari at this joint. Also popular for its haleem during Ramadan, Hotel Shadab is an ancient eatery opposite Madina building on High Court Road, in Ghansi Bazaar, that features some of the best biryani and kebabs you can hope to scarf down in Hyderabad.

Chutney's

Uttapams. Guntur Idlis. Corn Dosa. These are just a few of the reasons why one can never find a seat at Hyderabad’s most famous vegetarian restaurant in Banjara Hill. Simple South Indian fare with small twists like the Paneer Tikka Dosa make this place stand out from other dosa-offering corners.

Paradise Food Court

Biryani is a guilty pleasure for foodies across India and a conversation on Hyderabadi biryani is rarely complete without the mention of Paradise, which is more of a landmark today, than just a popular restaurant chain in the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. The fact that the restaurant is singled out as a must-visit destination in a city that has a long list of superlative eateries is a testament to the strength of the Paradise brand, which has been painstakingly built and maintained over the decades.

Solace with a Touch of Spirituality

The glistening white structure dotting the skyline of modern Hyderabad, Birla Mandir is located towards the southern end of Hussain Sagar Lake in Hyderabad. It situated atop the Kala Pahad which is a twin hillock of Naubat Pahad. The Birlas built the Hyderabad temple in 1976 and constructed it with white marbles imported from Rajasthan. The hillock is at a height of 280-feet situated on a 13-acre plot.

The construction took almost a decade to complete and was consecrated in the same year by Swami Ranganathananda of Ramakrishna Mission. Birla Foundation, known for constructing other similar temples across the country is the patron of Birla Mandir at Hyderabad too. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu present in the form of Sri Venkateswara.

In the evening, Birla Mandir presents a spectacular sight upon illumination. A trip to Hyderabad is considered incomplete without Birla Mandir by tourists for the last three decades. An enchanting Birla Mandir trip is a trip to remember and combines excellent architecture and workmanship and is a place for solace and spirituality.

A Collection of Antiques

Located on the southern bank of the river Musi, Salar Jung Museum is popularly known for its one of largest one-man collections of the world. The museum is one of the Hyderabad sightseeing places that must be visited. What makes this Salar Jung Museum all the more special is its location. It is located quite close to the other tourist spots of Hyderabad such as Charminar, Mecca Masjid, High Court, State Central Library, etc.

Salar Jung Museum of Hyderabad is the third largest museum in India. It was declared open in the year of 1951 by the first prime minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru. In the year of 1968, the entire collection was shifted to the present building.

Spread across an area of 10 acres and built in 2 floors, the Salar Jung Museum present wide range of artefacts which have been majorly collected by Mir Yousuf Ali Khan. Mir Yousuf Ali Khan dedicated his entire life collecting antiques and artefacts and spent considerable amount of his wealth collecting the same from all over the world.

The collection in museum is consisted of Indian Art, Far Eastern Art, European Art, Children Art, Middle Eastern Art, as well as Founders gallery and rare manuscript section. One of the major attractions of the museum is the 19th Century British Musical Clock. This clock was sold by Cooke and Kelvey of England. Another rare object at the museum is Veiled Rebecca, a marble statue, which was brought by Salar Jung I in 1876, on his trip to Italy.

Along with the enviable collection, Salar Jung museum also plays active role in organizing various workshops and exhibitions. It also publishes books in English, Urdu and Hindi languages as well as guide books and brochures, offering a complete understanding of the museum and the history behind it.

A Picturesque Scene to Remember

 A wonderful place to unwind and just plain relax in Hyderabad is the long strip of boulevard popularly known as Necklace Road. The name comes from the fact that the whole road, along with Hyderabad’s Tank Bund, resembles a beautiful necklace when seen from the sky. This long stretch of road connects NTR Gardens and Lumbini Park in Hyderabad to Sanjeevaiah Park in Secunderabad. This is how the whole thing is connected: the road from Sanjeevaiah Park connects to the Tank Bund Road which in turn is connected to NTR Gardens, forming a circle.

Necklace Road is the most popular boulevards in Hyderabad right now. One pass along its length should tell anyone why. It is complete with restaurants, stalls, recreational activities, and a wonderful view of the city of Hyderabad. There is also a three-kilometer long row of lush lawns and beautiful, exotic flowerbeds running from north to south that adds a much needed softness and colour to the stark urban concrete and cityscape. The People’s Plaza, also located in the boulevard, is a recreational place that is always busy all throughout the year with exhibitions, music shows, games, and sports usually in the playlist.

The cuisine is also good all around, with the restaurants Eat Street and Water Front leading the charge of popular eating joints. Eat Street caters more to the buffet crowd while Water Front is good for those who want a quick bite. However, both shops offer a fantastic view of the city.

Another popular park along Necklace Road is Jalavihar Park, located right in the middle of the road. It is a family-oriented park, equipped with a swimming pool, water slides, and other amusement park-type games. It also has a restaurant where anyone who’s tired from all the day’s activities can rest and recharge.

At night, the Necklace Road becomes a wonderful and colorful spectacle, worthy of being in a city sights magazine. The lights in the nearby Hyderabad complex and the Hussain Sagar lake makes for what is immediately a wonderful and relaxing evening.

The HITEC Hub

At the heart of Hyderabad’s technological progress juggernaut is the cybercity called HITEC City. The name stands for Hyderabad Information Technology Engineering Consultancy City and it provides a stark contrast to the historically-laden monuments and sites present in Hyderabad. The formation and birth of the HITEC City is the consummation of a state’s vision of becoming a contender in the information technology boom, largely reminiscent of Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah’s dreams when he started building Hyderabad itself.

It is a city within a city that is planned to have integrated infrastructural facilities such as offices spaces, production areas, auditoriums, housing for employees, and even shopping complexes. It is a massive site, and looking at it, it really isn’t a stretch to think that 25% of computer personnel and services in the United States are from Hyderabad.

The centerpiece of HITEC City is a cylindrical structure 10 stories high, aptly called Cyber Towers. HITEC City is still expanding, with more and more global companies opting to settle in due to cheap labor, nice working environments, and competent workers. It will not be a surprise if Hyderabad becomes a global powerhouse when it comes to information technology, with HITEC City leading the charge.

The Land of a Million Dreams

My recent visit to the world’s Largest Ramoji Film City gave me the ultimate experience of cine-magic. The Vintage tour is the most admired tour as you travel around the large size film sets which are specially crafted for the blockbuster movies. As you travel around the back-lot tour, the live film sets are visual treats as the tour takes you all over the globe right from Tollywood to Hollywood film Industry.

Every tourist is taken on a guided back-lot tour of the make believe world where in the settings, landscapes and avenues related to different films are shown. The aesthetically designed Butterfly Park is home to thousands of colorful butterflies which is a great visual treat for the guests. Make sure to capture the glimpse of the striking showcase of the world of Bonsai plants, which are ornamentally shaped & sized!

Make sure to take part in the Self Experience which consists the audio-visual illusions of the reel world by being part of real special effects, dubbing and editing at Lights, Camera & Action show. This enlivening attraction mold’s anyone into an enthusiastic filmmaker on a 25 minute stint of mock shooting!

All in all, you have many wonders to explore at the world’s Largest Ramoji Film City. Grandeur Film City Locales, Thematic Gardens, Mesmerizing Fountains, Mythological Sets, Exotic Birds Park, the butterfly park, Kids wonder-zone, Enthralling Live Shows, Thrill Rides & many more! 

A day or two may not give you the feel of leisure trip to Ramoji Film City so a minimum of 3 Nights stay is a must for the complete leisure tour of the World’s Largest Ramoji Film City.

The Buddha Way!

I have never been to the pedestal area where the Buddha statue in Hussain Sagar lake has been installed. This was the first time for me in all my years staying in Hyderabad and most of the folks in today’s trip. I have always seen the statue from a distance but never taking the short boat trip towards the huge statue standing in the middle of tank bund.

I still vividly remember the days when the Buddha statue was being carved in a small village (Raigiri), an hour away from Hyderabad, and the shocking news when Buddha statue fell down into the lake while being transported to the pedestal area. After two years of salvage operation the monolithic Buddha statue was finally pulled out of the lake and installed on the lotus shaped pedestal on the Rock of Gibraltar.  Wiki says, It is the world’s tallest monolith of Gautama Buddha, and stands at 58 feet (18 m) and weighs 350 tons. It was consecrated by HH Dalia Lama in 2006.

The pedestal itself is beautifully decorated with statues and lions and amazing bass relief sculptures depicting the life of Lord Buddah. The statue is lit up during the night with multi coloured lights.

A Weekend of Exploring

Going Solo at Golconda Fort

So, as it was, I set out for Golconda fort, one fine Sunday morning. After a heavy breakfast which comprised of the South Indian ethnic cuisines of Dosa, Idli and Vada, I set out from my home near Tarnaka. I had to board a bus to Mehdipatnam Bus Terminus from Osmania University, from where I could board a bus to Golconda. An hour and a half of facing the inveterate Deccan heat and dust later, I found myself humbled with awe by a magnificent example of human creation. The fortress walls have been along for quite some time of the journey, but the citadel is where the fanciest of the action is. After some time at the queue, the realization dawned on me that I was perhaps the odd one out in the crowd. But let me tell you this, travelling solo brings a certain freedom which is unparalleled. Personally, I trust my feet with it’s choice of random paths without carrying the additional burden of time, company or even, destination.

Entering the citadel premises, through the main (and only) entrance, the first sight that greets you is the number of visitors clapping underneath the dome, trying to emulate the improvised warning system that the fort used. The warning clap under the dome could alert the troops garrisoned in the fortress, such is the marvel of the acoustics.

You can choose your path to climb up to the top of the Golconda fortress. Climb up the stairs as Golconda unravels history part by part. Look up, and the structure humbles you, look down and the architecture never ceases to amaze.

Each evening a mesmerizing laser show in the fort (ticket Rs 50) takes place. A perfect end to a perfect day...

A Visit to the Old City in Hyderabad

Standing in the bus stop at Osmania University, I have been accustomed to the Deccan heat for over 21 years now. The weather wasn’t exactly close to my favorite kind, but nevertheless, I was enjoying myself. It was a Sunday, and not wanting to waste the day, I decided to visit the iconic Charminar. It would need me to visit the older parts of the city, and I took the bus to Afzalganj, from where a short trip by auto rickshaw would take me to Charminar area. I remembered the paths like the palm of my hand.

Sitting in the auto at Charminar, staring out at the chaotic congregation outside, I lay in wonder how the cogs work together to keep the machinery in place, if at all there is one for these patches of areas in India. Markets, hawkers, peddlers, vendors, pedestrians, two-wheelers, cattle, auto rickshaws- all seemed to compliment each other in the chaotic assemble of daily life. How do such random plethora of activities go about in unison, should be a matter of research! Getting down, the first sight met with Islamic architectures:

The streets had all kinds of shops selling items like ‘itar‘- a strong perfume, or the famed bangles available in the area. It seemed like a street shopping arcade that would surely draw the fancy of women.

I checked my watch. It was 4:30 PM only. It was too early to call it a day. I consulted Google Maps and noticed another place nearby, I could visit that day in my hometown.

The plan was simple. Board the right bus and trust my feet. And I was not disappointed! But, this will be covered in another post, fellow traveller!

I Heart My City

When someone comes to visit me, the first place I take them is to the Old City to get a crash course on Hyderabad. In addition to being where the iconic Charminar is located, the Chowmahalla Palace, Mecca Mosque, and Purani Haveli Museum are all a stone’s throw away. Occasionally, you’ll see remnants of heritage homes built in Islamic, Rajasthani, Maharashtrian, and other architectural styles bearing testimony to Hyderabad’s centuries-old cosmopolitan culture.

After monsoon season (September-December) is the best time to visit the city because the weather is at its most pleasant. Hyderabad’s tourist season is lean to moderate throughout the year, so anytime (save March, April, and May when temperatures skyrocket to the blistering 40's) is a good time. Except for the Charminar area, tourist spots are not overly crowded, so you won’t find guides pestering you.

You can see my city best from the magnificent ruins of the legendary Golconda Fort, where the famous Hope and Kohinoor diamonds were once stored.

Locals know to skip the renowned Hotel Paradise and check out 4 Seasons, Banne Nawabs or Hotel Shadab for Hyderabadi cuisine instead. However, if you have landed yourself an invite to a Hyderabadi family’s home for a meal, you have won the jackpot in the authentic cuisine department.

A Glimpse into the City of Nizams

The City of Pearls, Nizams, and the world famous Hyderabadi biryani, Hyderabad has been a foodie’s paradise and a history lover’s haven! Over four centuries old, Hyderabad is one of the biggest and fastest growing metropolitan cities in India. Hyderabad is best known for the Golconda Fort, Charminar, Hussain Sagar Lake, various tombs and mosques and one of the country’s biggest film cities, Ramoji City.


In fact, recently, Hyderabad also made it as the number one city in India on the basis of best standard of living. With the annual report released by Mercer’s Quality of Living rankings 2016, Hyderabad makes it higher than any other Indian city, to the 139th spot. This is the second time in a row that Hyderabad has been ranked as the best Indian City and is a lot ahead of most other cities in the country.


However, Hyderabad has dropped down one spot in the global listings (from the 138th position last year), due to the extreme climate conditions and the irregular power supply. Yet, when compared to rest of the nation, Hyderabad is known to have relatively better options for international and reputable English speaking schools, lower crime rate and lesser air pollution.


Globally, Vienna made the cut for the best quality of living, followed by Zurich, Auckland, Munich and Vancouver. In India, Pune and Bangalore were ranked 144 and 145 respectively, making them the second and third best city in India. Followed by Chennai on 150, Mumbai on 152, Kolkata on 160 and lastly Delhi on 161.


Factors such as socio-economic conditions, housing, political stability, crime, heath care, transport, recreation and education were taken into consideration for assessing around 230 cities around the world, proving how little Indian cities have improved.