Visiting Biryani Heaven

There are many types of Biryani in Hyderabad, each with its own history and taste. Speaking of Hyderabadi dum Biryani, you'll find these of two qualities - the common variety served in hundreds of Biryani shops across the city, and the more sophisticated 'artisanal' type, found in pricey, fine dining restaurants. The major difference between these two is the ingredients used, with the latter using expensive varieties of rice (usually Basmati) and high-quality spices.

Hyderabadis have very strong opinions on Biryani and can come to blows defending their favourite type. I have been here for most of my life, and I have my own list.

My favourite mutton Biryani is made by Shah Ghouse cafe at Syed Ali Chaboutra in the Old City. The best way to end a Biryani meal there is to stop for a suleimani chai at the bakery nearby. 

Other really good varieties are to be found at Bawarchi (the original one) at RTC Crossroads in Secunderabad and Astoria, a few doors down from it. Paradise, though heavily marketed, is too flat, with a very shallow flavour in my opinion.

There are other Old City options that you will hear about - Shadab used to be good in the past but the quality has been inconsistent since then.

Among the fine dining restaurants, try Jewel of Nizam at the Golkonda Hotel by the Masab Tank flyover. They do a really great job. If you eat there, do try the Anokhi Kheer, a dessert made of spring onions!

What you should really do is try as many places as you can. You may find something that appeals to you. Good luck fellow traveller!

Beating the Heat in Hyderabad

A summer day is overblown ten times in India. The Sun, once a trusted friend, is now unleashing its vengeance on the Indian populace. Summers in the city of Hyderabad are no lesser than in any of the other states. What do the people of Hyderabad do on a hot summer day? They cool themselves down with these yummy drinks.

Hyderabadi Lassi

When the heat is draining out all your energy; there is no space for fancy colas and some such. If you want to beat the heat, then gulp down this flavourful Lassi. Hyderabadi Lassi is a special drink from the streets of Hyderabad and is a local favourite during summer. Curd, sugar and water are blended together to make this beautiful concoction.

Falooda

Eat it or drink it, Falooda never disappoints. Traditionally it is made from mixing rose syrup, vermicelli, psyllium or basil seeds, tapioca pearls and pieces of gelatine with milk or water. The basil seeds are known for their cooling properties and Falooda is eaten as a popular dessert in many households during summer in Hyderabad.

Roohafza

Roohafza is a rose flavoured drink that contains extracts from different plants and fruits. It has a complex flavour. A glass full of lassi with roohafza rejuvenates and makes you feel fresh. Roohafza can either be addeed to milk or yoghurt and had.

Irani Chai

Irani Chai has always defined the café culture of Hyderabad. Introduced by Persian settlers, this drink has a special place in every Hyderabadi’s heart. A sip of chai on a summer evening will take away all the heat that’s been bothering you.

Pudina Sharbat

This is a lemon and mint drink that is a great summer beverage. The Sharbat wala can be spotted at the corner of every street of Hyderabad serving tall glasses of this delicious drink. One glass of it can do wonders to you.

Hyderabad during the Holy Month of Ramadan

It is past midnight but the traffic is moving at snail's pace. Scores of people are in their cars, parked on both sides of the road and relishing the haleem, a Ramadan delicacy.

Dozens of young waiters of Pista House and Shah Ghouse, the two popular haleem makers, are on their feet, vying with each other to serve customers on the busy Toli Chowki-Mehdipatnam stretch.

Shoppers, the faithful returning from mosques, techies heading home from IT hubs, and families throng the dozens of food joints serving piping hot haleem. Heavy traffic, illuminated shops, and crowded hotels and eateries give one a feeling that it is day time.

And this is not the old city. So, the situation in the famous markets around the historic Charminar can well be imagined.

Any Hyderabadi, or anyone who is friends with a Hyderabadi, will know about Haleem, because they cannot stop talking about it! Hyderabadi Haleem is a unique dish made from meat, lentils and pounded wheat and various street stalls serve this dish in Hyderabad especially during Ramadan.

The Survival of a City

On the 10th of July 1947, the 'Declaration of the Indian Independence' bill was introduced by Harold Macmillan. To the Nizam's dismay, no mention or decision was taken regarding the state of Hyderabad.

All princely states were given the option to either join India, Pakistan or remain independent. All states that would join the Indian Union would have to surrender their sovereignty and their right to collect taxes. All princely states large and small agreed to join the Union of India, except Hyderabad. In June 1947, the Nizam issued a proclamation declaring independence from the Indian Union.

On the 15th of August 1947, India attained independence from the British, but Hyderabad stood defiant as an independent state. On 29th November 1947, the Nizam signed a 'standstill agreement' with the Indian Union for a period of one year.

In the months following the signing of the Standstill Agreement, suspicion and misgivings between the Nizam and the Indian government grew. Relations between the two were far from amicable.

On the 13th of September 1948, the Indian Army initiated its Police Action Against Hyderabad. The exercise was termed Operation Polo and for five days the Razakars and the Hyderabad army made a half hearted attempt to resist the Indian army. But their antiquated ammunition and ill equipped soldiers were no match to an entire armoured division of the mighty Indian army. A number of Razakars lost their lives in the battle and their feeble resistance was soon overcome.

Five days later, on the 18th of September, 1948, the Indian army entered Secunderabad Cantonment. Military rule was imposed.

A reluctant Hyderabad finally merged with the Union of India.

In 1972, the Indian Prime Minister, Ms Indira Gahndhi abolished the 'privy purse' and monarchs and royal families lost all their privileges at one go. The Prince migrated to Australia and while most of his estate is being managed by the trusts formed by his grandfather, some of it has been acquired by the government.

Thus an era became history and a Asaf Jahi dynasty spanning seven generations faded into the twilight leaving behind an indelible print on the sand of time.

The Birth of a City

Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, a ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, was the founder of Hyderabad City. In the year 1591, when the Moon was in the constellation of Leo, Jupiter in its own abode and all celestial planets favourably placed, he laid the foundation of a new city which he called Bhagyanagar after his beloved queen 'Bhagmati'. Bhagmati embraced Islam and took the name Hyder Mahal and consequently Bhagynagar was renamed Hyderabad after her.

City of Love

The fourteen year old crown Sultan of Golconda, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah was madly in love with a beautiful Hindu courtesan 'Bhagmati', a local dancer. Every evening, the Prince of Golconda would ride to the village of Chichlam across Musi river, to meet his beloved, for he couldn't live without watching her dance, and listening to her soulful voice.

The romance of the crown Prince with a dancer evoked great curiosity and controversy in Golconda. The fact that she was a Hindu courtesan and much older than the prince, created quite a uproar in the court. The orthodox society was not ready to accept her as queen of Golconda. After ascending the throne, Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah defied all traditions, married Bhagmati, and made her his queen. He re-christened her Hyder Mahal, and named the city Hyderabad in honour of her.

The Paradise Food Trail

The regal charm of Hyderabad lies in its ability to seamlessly merge its HITEC hub with its ancient heritage. By-lanes of Secunderabad, Char Minar and Nampally are awash with pungent aromas that fuse typical Andhra cuisine with rich Nizam culinary offerings. If you are on a food trail in the city, there's a cup of Irani chai and a buttery-soft Osmania biscuit waiting for you.


Cloudy haleems, crispy dosas, toothsome biriyanis and the search for the elusive luqmi (short fried pockets of mutton that can out-triumph any self-respecting samosa) - all this and more will have any true food lover falling in love with Hyderabad. A litre of watermelon ice cream here is the same price as a stick of gum. And, while Hyderabad is peppered with eateries, bakeries and watering holes, here are a few that you should not miss when in the city.

Hotel Shadab

Skip past the usual commercial restaurants that scream biryani, and instead head for some delicious chicken nihari at this joint. Also popular for its haleem during Ramadan, Hotel Shadab is an ancient eatery opposite Madina building on High Court Road, in Ghansi Bazaar, that features some of the best biryani and kebabs you can hope to scarf down in Hyderabad.

Chutney's

Uttapams. Guntur Idlis. Corn Dosa. These are just a few of the reasons why one can never find a seat at Hyderabad’s most famous vegetarian restaurant in Banjara Hill. Simple South Indian fare with small twists like the Paneer Tikka Dosa make this place stand out from other dosa-offering corners.

Paradise Food Court

Biryani is a guilty pleasure for foodies across India and a conversation on Hyderabadi biryani is rarely complete without the mention of Paradise, which is more of a landmark today, than just a popular restaurant chain in the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. The fact that the restaurant is singled out as a must-visit destination in a city that has a long list of superlative eateries is a testament to the strength of the Paradise brand, which has been painstakingly built and maintained over the decades.

Solace with a Touch of Spirituality

The glistening white structure dotting the skyline of modern Hyderabad, Birla Mandir is located towards the southern end of Hussain Sagar Lake in Hyderabad. It situated atop the Kala Pahad which is a twin hillock of Naubat Pahad. The Birlas built the Hyderabad temple in 1976 and constructed it with white marbles imported from Rajasthan. The hillock is at a height of 280-feet situated on a 13-acre plot.

The construction took almost a decade to complete and was consecrated in the same year by Swami Ranganathananda of Ramakrishna Mission. Birla Foundation, known for constructing other similar temples across the country is the patron of Birla Mandir at Hyderabad too. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu present in the form of Sri Venkateswara.

In the evening, Birla Mandir presents a spectacular sight upon illumination. A trip to Hyderabad is considered incomplete without Birla Mandir by tourists for the last three decades. An enchanting Birla Mandir trip is a trip to remember and combines excellent architecture and workmanship and is a place for solace and spirituality.